Surf Blog

Surf Forecasting: Swell Forecasts (part 2)

Tue, 9 Feb 2010 01:06:00 GMT

Continuing on part one of surf forecasting...In my last post, I wrote about how to look at swell models to get a feel for what sort of waves are headed your way. Today I'll write about the effect of swell period on surf conditions.A definition first, the period of a wave is the time interval between 2 passing peaks or troughs. The longer the period, the greater the wavelength, (and the lower the frequency)Take a look at this (awful and not to scale) illustration o...
Read More

Surf Forecasting: Basics

Wed, 3 Feb 2010 07:20:00 GMT

Surf forecasting has 2 main facets, swell forecasting, and local wind forecasting for surf conditions. Since waves are a direct product of wind, they really both come down to the same thing. Today, we talk in very basic terms about the waves part.Basic wave forecasting is pretty easy, just like weather forecasting, computers do most of the heavy lifting through swell models. These models use a set of equations to figure out how winds blowing over the surface of t...
Read More

Surfing Blog: Coastal Erosion

Wed, 27 Jan 2010 00:24:00 GMT

El Nino, like monsoons, it's one of those weather phenomenon that most people don't really understand, and just equate with "big storm".El Nino isn't a storm, (or tropical storm for that matter), but it does help strong storms form in the Pacific, and draws those storms further to the south than in normal or La Nina years. This can be great for surfers on the West Coast and in Hawaii, but it also can bring destruction to the coast.The large waves that thrill surfer...
Read More

Surfing Blog: Weekend Forecast

Thu, 21 Jan 2010 19:54:00 GMT

This weekend isn't looking like a great one for surfing across the nation as we see stormy weather on both coasts. Southern California will continue to see plenty of waves in the water, but onshore winds are expected to remain steady all weekend, putting a damper on prospects for surfing. The winds combined with the recent heavy rains should convince anyone to stay out of the water. Central California might see some opportunity for surfable waves both Saturday an...
Read More

Surfing Blog: Conditions around the country

Mon, 18 Jan 2010 21:59:00 GMT

Hey All,Taking a look at Monday's surf conditions around the country... The East saw a bit of a funky swell, as a Nor'easter moved up the coast. The way the storm tracked up the coast, kept any real NE swell from developing, but a moderate sized SE swell set up in its place bringing fun sized surf to much of the coast from Long Island to the Outer Banks. Beaches with southern exposure tended to see the best waves, especially since northerly winds brought choppy co...
Read More